10 Things You Should Know Before Making Homemade Laundry Detergent

by Ivory Soap on 05/30/2012

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I have spent HOURS on the this database researching all of the possible chemical formulations of laundry detergent, and like dishwasher detergent, it has completely CHANGED how I make homemade laundry detergent!

Cleaning Power

1. NO commercial detergents contain BORAX and WASHING SODA together.

It’s an either/or.   Powder is washing soda.  Liquid detergents have borax, usually with alcohol.  End of story.  My guess is that washing soda loses its poop over time in water and borax doesn’t.

This may also be why powder detergents are supposed to be more effective than liquid.  Borax only lets the cleaning pH go up so far.  And borax is most effective in hotter water, so since most people wash in cold these days, it’s not useful enough to include in commercial detergent unless it’s pre-dissolved in a liquid?

Conclusion:  Borax is fine, but if you’re having trouble getting things CLEAN (which is not the same as WHITE), replacing borax with washing soda will make it more powerful.  If you want to make liquid detergent, washing soda may not be a good choice, however, I have no idea how that alcohol/borax thing works out.  Good luck.

2.  Only Purex and Seventh Generation use salt.  Nobody else does.

Purex powder is almost 50% salt.  Seventh Generation uses a tiny amount in some of their liquids.  Salt *is* a water softener, but it’s WAY weaker than washing soda.

Conclusion:  If it works for you, great.  But if you’re having problems getting things CLEAN, ditch the salt and put in more washing soda.

3.  NO detergents contain BAKING SODA

Not even Arm and Hammer.  Baking soda is only half as strong as washing soda at softening water and doesn’t allow the cleaning pH to go nearly as high.   And if you have a stronger product on hand, why dilute it with a weaker one?

Conclusion: Like salt, and borax, if you’re having trouble getting something clean, eliminate the baking soda and replace with washing soda.  But if you’re washing delicates, tossing in a buffer like baking soda is a good idea!

4.  ALMOST ALL commercial detergents contained some kind of SOAP or NON-SOAP detergent

Grate up that Ivory (SUPER FINE so it dissolves well) or whatever you have around.  Pure tallow or lard soap has less cleaning power than anything made from coconut oil, but coconut oil is super bubbly.  Ivory is a split between the two.  I love it.

5.  Most detergents contain enzymes. (UPDATE 7/4/2012:  Old timers use MEAT TENDERIZER for protein enzymes.  I don’t know how it would do IN your washer, but it would work just fine in a soak!)

Enzymes eat your protein stains. You can buy Biz or another enzyme cleaner and add it in, OR you *could* make your own.  These enzymes are from cultured bacteria from three places:

  1. B. Subtilis, which is found in ropy bread (a type of spoiled) and the Japanese food, Natto.  You could culture it from that if you like.  Red Devil Drain Maintainer liquid, and Rid-X Septic System treatment Ultra Liquid are both 100% Subtilis bacteria.  If you have easy access to any of those, a tiny squirt in your wash should be AMAZING.
  2. B. Lichenformis, which is found in the chest feathers of ground dwelling birds and somehow contributes to their molting schedule.  I am totally going to swab the chicks and try to grow that for fun.
  3. B. Cereus, which is not widely used yet, but comes from un-canned fermented cabbage.  Cultured kraut juice should do the trick.  Maybe buzz and strain some of the kraut itself it for more power.

I’m going to make all three with the kids this summer for fun!  I’ll tell you how it goes…

Conclusion:  It’s hard to get out many stains without an enzyme cleaner.  Buy one unless you want to culture one of the above three bacteria.

Now, Let’s Talk Whites

6. ONLY powdered commercial detergents use an oxygen bleach. 

Oxiclean looses it’s poop in liquid form.  You can make your own Oxiclean POWDER by mixing peroxide and washing soda and dehydrating it, but there’s really no point.  In water, Oxiclean becomes peroxide and washing soda.  It’s easier to just dump peroxide in your bleach compartment or make a solution of half peroxide half washing soda for immediate use on stains.  Probably more frugal is a scoop of Dollar store Oxiclean.  Borax has been touted as an oxygen bleach but it’s weak and doesn’t work in cold water at all.

7. Vinegar dissolves the salt deposits on your clothes. 

You can just put ½ cup in your rinse compartment, but it you have really hard water and a top loader, it might not be enough vinegar to make a dent.

8. ONLY Tide Tablets (old product) contain CITRIC ACID. 

As you add more acid to the mix, and decrease the possibility of deposits, you are neutralizing the washing soda.   To use it with washing soda, you have to overwhelm the citric acid with washing soda to make sure there’s enough left to do it’s high pH cleaning thing.   In Tide Tablets, it’s at least a 4 parts washing soda to 1 part citric acid.

Conclusion:  Use 1 cup of washing soda for each 1/4 cup citric acid.  If I still get sediment, use more detergent, and switch the acid in the rinse compartment to citric acid.

9.  Whites aren’t REALLY white in the real world.  

Most whiteness is an ILLUSION.  There’s two fancy chemical families in most commercial detergents that trick your eyes into seeing WHITE.  They boil down to BLUING and FLUORESCING.

  • BLUING has been around forever.  Most white garments come from the store with BLUING in that eventually wears off.  This bluing DYE counteracts the natural yellow cast.  If you want that brilliant white back, you need to BLUE it periodically with THIS or use a combination commercial product that has that effect.
  • Another option is FLUORESCING, often tagged as “optical brighteners.”  This is in Zote soap.  These chemicals activate in light.  So if you soak something in Zote (or any other product with brighteners) and put it in the sun….it gets REALLY bright.

But, but…. 

10.  If you really think it’s not getting clean try using T.A.C.T.

Temperature, Agitation, Chemistry, Time:

  • Increase the temperature of the wash water. Oils especially don’t want to come out in cold water.
  • Put your detergent in FIRST and less clothes in the wash so they tumble better.
  • Use more detergent and/or make sure the detergent you are using is rinsed well
  • Soak the load before you run it.

For me, I use half washing soda and half grated Ivory or homemade lard/coconut oil soap…REALLY FINE GRATED. The older your soap (even Ivory), the more brittle and easy to grind. 3T in the washer, 1/2 cup vinegar in the rinse. For lights and whites, I use hot water, 1/2 cup peroxide in the bleach compartment, unless I have the presence of mind to remember the Dollar Store Oxiclean.

{ 150 comments… read them below or add one }

Loren Amelang April 1, 2013 at 7:53 pm

I was out looking for what is really in “New Age Biodegradeable Household Cleaner”, which has been my “soap” source for many years. The label says “water, coconut oil, lemon oil, wetting agents, citric acid”, but I always thought you needed lye to turn oil into soap. Or a fancy reactor and heat and hydrogen… And I thought “wetting agents” was another term for detergent. But it seems to work well and has only a slight lemony scent that doesn’t stick to things.

Interesting to see this discussion of washing soda and borax! I use roughly equal proportions for laundry in my ancient front-loader with _very_ hard water. Agitate the powders in the water first, to deal with the hardness, and then add enough New Age to just barely foam, and then the clothes. The EWG “Guide to Healthy Cleaning” says borax is nasty, but it seems if I don’t use it the gooey hard water residue coats my clothes.

For the people mentioning sodium percarbonate, supposedly OxyBoost is at least 80-90% sodium percarbonate, while Oxiclean contains about 50-60%. You can buy the 100% stuff in bulk several places on the web. Search eBay for “Koi Pond & Waterfall Cleaner”, where I just bought 10 pounds delivered for $27. Yes, it is amazing for killing string algae and brightening wood decks, as well as laundry. But if you’re using more than is required to oxidize your stains, it becomes just an expensive form of washing soda.

Amanda April 5, 2013 at 9:59 am

thanks for all your research!!!

Tess April 17, 2013 at 1:06 pm

Hi there,

I’m in the UK and TOTALLY love this post… I am trying to justify making my own detergent but all the ingredients seem to come in smaller, more expensive versions here…. Can anyone tell me what would be a good source for the biological enzymes other than just buying a super cheap bio powder to add to my mix? Thanks!

Dawn maness April 30, 2013 at 10:34 am

I have had Borax ruin clothing so I’m curious when people use it. ..Do you put in washer then turn on water then add clothes.

Sommer May 12, 2013 at 3:50 pm

I’ve been making my own laundry detergent for about a year now. it consists of fells naptha, Arm and Hammer washing soda and borax. with a cup of each and a bar of the soap I get 5 gallons of detergent. I’ve never had a problem with any of our clothes ruining. Maybe for those who have had issues with borax, it could be that there was too much of it used. Or maybe I should knock on wood and be greatful I haven’t.

Vicki May 15, 2013 at 10:30 am

Very helpful article. It’s almost time for me to make another batch of detergent. I think I’ll tinker with the recipe some more. With my last batch, I switched from Fels Naptha to Ivory, and now I’d love to ditch the Borax. I am going to look for some Zote, also. Thanks for all your research.

Deanna May 16, 2013 at 10:15 am

I really found this post helpful when I was figuring out how to make my own laundry detergent and linked to it when I made my own post. So thank you for sharing!

Teresa Kwon May 21, 2013 at 2:58 pm

To clarify…
When you said, “… 3T in the washer, 1/2 cup vinegar in the rinse. For lights and whites, I use hot water, 1/2 cup peroxide in the bleach compartment..” Do you add the peroxide with the 3T (of your homemade laundry soap) + 1/2 c vinegar or does the peroxide replace something?

And do you have any thoughts on soda ash (for example: look below), not Arm & Hammer washing soda? If I understand correctly, soda ash is the pure or more purer form of washing soda, sodium carbonate Na2CO3?


Cissy May 31, 2013 at 10:54 am

Sommer, I just made my detergent and was wondering what amount do you use for each load? I was told to use 1Tbsp?

Brian May 31, 2013 at 11:56 am

I use about 1.5 tablespoons, but I also think it depends on the hardness of your water and how dirty the clothes are.

I use a scoop that came from a jar of “dollar store Oxi-Clean”. According to my kitchen measuring spoons, a rounded scoop of laundry detergent using that scoop measures approximately 1.5 tablespoons. If I am washing more soiled clothes, then I will usually throw in another half scoop. Hope that bit of information helps.


Kristie June 21, 2013 at 11:45 am

Is the Ivory soap non toxic? (I am really careful about that kind of stuff because of previous health issues.) Would the ivory soap, washing soda and then vinegar work for hard water and sweaty clothes?

Abbie June 25, 2013 at 8:06 pm

So I wanted to add enzymes to my detergent mix but I could not find one at my local store so I got Papain in the meat tenderizer isle. Can I use that for now till I get some off the web?

Ivory Soap June 28, 2013 at 8:02 am

I would think so.

Laurie July 24, 2013 at 8:23 pm

Regarding borax ruining clothes, I haven’t had that experience. However, I use an old washing machine with cold water and only one rinse, and I was tired of the borax powder not rinsing off properly. Solution: While the washer is filling, mix half a cup of borax with a quart of boiling water from the kettle, stir well and wait a minute or two until completely dissolved), and add to the washer when it’s full of water.
Actually, now I do the above with borax and soda ash (aka sodium carbonate, or pool chemical for raising pH); I only use 1/4 cup of this mix (again, with boiling water), and it works better than borax alone.
Oh–you have to put vinegar in the rinse or the crystals from the borax and/or soda ash will crystalize on the clothes; maybe that’s what ruined yours. Some say don’t use vinegar in a washing machine, or that borax is not environmentally safe, but we all have to look into these ideas and decide for ourselves.

Mary August 31, 2013 at 10:20 am

I have been making laundry detergent for a couple of months now. I have noticed a mildew smell on and off on some clean articles of clothing. I never notice the smell after getting the clothing out of the dryer. I notice when I grab the item from the drawer. It didn’t start until I started using my own concoction (Borax, Washing Soda, Dawn dishwashing detergent. I like the low cost and would like to continue. Any suggestions?

Kay Mahoney September 18, 2013 at 12:28 pm

I love your blog! Thanks for all you teach me.

Since you know a lot about chemistry, would you look at this list of ingredients for Cal-Ben’s soap products, and tell me the good, the bad, and the ugly? Actually, I’m only interested in the Five Star shampoo, bar soap, and liquid/dish soap. Thanks to you and your wonderful info, I make the other things I use, and I’m quite happy with them.

I need to know if the shampoo, bar soap, and dish soap are safe. Here’s the list they provided.

Thank again,
Kay Mahoney

Ingredient Listing For Cal-Ben Products:

Complexion Beauty Pure Soap Bar
20% Cocoa Butter (Extra Virgin Copra Cocoanut Oil) U.S.P. Grade. 80% Vegetable Fat (Highest Grade Tallow Oil) A few drops Pure Almond Essential Oil Extract for essence

Five Star Shampoo (Triple Concentrate)
Extra Virgin Cocoa Butter Oils, Vegetable Protein Oil, Amide Cocoa Fat, Essential Cocoanut Oil Essence, Vegetable Fat Conditioner

Seafoam Dish Glow Concentrate
Vegetable Tallow Oil, Extra Virgin Coca Butter Oil, Anionic Degreaser, Foam Stabilizer, Opacifier, Essential Oil Extract Of California Oranges Essence

Seafoam Liquid Pure Soap
Vegetable Tallow Oil, Extra Virgin Coca Butter Oil, Anionic Degreaser, Foam Stabilizer, Opacifier, Essential Oil Extract Of California Oranges Essence

Seafoam Laundry Soap Granules (SUPER CONCENTRATE)
Dry White Cocoa Granules, Tallow Oil Granules, C.M.C. Degreaser, Anionic Degreaser, Sodium Metasilicate, Washing Soda, Essential Oil Extract Of Lemon Oil Essence

Seafoam Laundry Liquid (SUPER CONCENTRATE)
Liquid Cocoa Amide, Tallow Oil, C.M.C. Degreaser, Non-Ionic & Ionic Degreaser, Essential Oil Extract of California Oranges Essence

Seafoam Dish Machine Granules Concentrate ( Destain )
Sodium Carbonate, Sodium Silicate, Biodegradable Surfactant, Chlorine, Sodium Sulfate. Zero Phosphate Formula

Almond Hand Lotion
Purified Water, Glycerin, Tea-Sterarate, Vegitable Fatty Acids, Almond Oil Extract, D&C Red #33

Ivory Soap October 17, 2013 at 7:22 pm

Ditch the borax entirely. Also, are you doing liquid or powder? Liquid loses power over time. Powder is more stable.

Cindy A October 17, 2013 at 10:13 pm

Thank god for the perfectionists out there, doing all this good research! Saved me from having to do it, and I’m busy, organizing my sock drawer by color, type, and season…

Jenny D October 18, 2013 at 9:31 am

What type of washer are you using when you use 3T of laundry detergent?

Desert Fox October 26, 2013 at 12:33 pm

If you want to bleach the natural way…just soap the item and place it in the sun for a bit. It works!

When you say “Liquid loses power over time” – if you wash regularly, the liquid will be used within a decent period not becoming weak! The powder kind of soap might not dissolve well if you pile it in one spot. You might want to dissolve it in a cup first to distribute it better in the liquid stage. Ah!… a little bit here and a little bit there! Life is a blast!

Ivory Soap October 28, 2013 at 6:44 am

top loader, jenny. You need less for a front loader

Randell December 22, 2013 at 5:51 pm

?t is said that in Indian folklore if yyou eat
three leaves of fresh Holy Basil that you will prevent
any diseases. Any kin? of te? – green tea, black tea, ookong tea, they all
are effectiv? for weight control as long as they are not taken without any sugar oor cream.

What w? do need tto know is very simple:
Drinking tea will help us lose weight.

David Custer January 11, 2014 at 8:53 pm

After reading your research. I tried the following recipe. Which works for laundry powder, dishwasher detergent, and scouring powder.

1 cup washing soda
1 cup 100% coconut oil soap with 1% super fat
1/4 cup citric acid
1/2 cup sea salt

Thank you for everything!

janet January 21, 2014 at 5:20 pm

Thanks for doing all this research! I have shared this page many times. For all the people who ask if it works in well water…the answer depends on where your well is, or in other words what kind of water you have. I have used it with well water and had great results. My water has lots of iron in it but apparently not much calcium and/or magnesium which makes water hard. You really just have to experiment to see what works best in your particular water.

Teri January 27, 2014 at 4:56 pm

So could you tell me about how much Ivory soap and how much washing soda you use? Maybe I missed it. Thanks!

Teri January 27, 2014 at 5:31 pm

Also, is it safe for HE toploaders?

dena February 12, 2014 at 3:45 pm

I am so overwhelmed with all this information I don’t know what to do. I currently make my own liquid detergent, washing soda, borax and some kind of soap. Sometimes I will add a TSP of salt to the load for fading. Ive got a top loader and have not had any issues. Upon reading this info I don’t know what to do, someone please help me.

kim February 16, 2014 at 11:46 pm

Hello, thanks so much for the tips. I just wanted to let you know that you should probably stay away from the bacteria b. cereus if you have kids in the house. It can cause a nasty stomach infection, it is one of the bacteria that causes food poisoning! http://www.foodsafety.gov/poisoning/causes/bacteriaviruses/bcereus/

Rebecca March 20, 2014 at 4:02 pm

Do you have any thoughts on using the liquid enzyme cleaner meant for pools as a laundry additive? The instructions call for 8 oz. per 10,000 gallons (!) so I was thinking a few drops in each load of laundry, but I’m too chicken to just try it without some input from someone who understands these things.

Alicia July 28, 2014 at 7:05 am

OK. I’ve tried the recipe Ivory Soap uses and while I love it, it doesn’t seem like it lasts a long time. I think my batch (using a single bar of soap and equal parts of washing soda) only lasted a week. Am I doing something wrong? I have a family of 5. I used to use the recipe that called for lots of water, washing soda, borax, and a bar of soap, which lasted half a year for my family (but it didn’t clean as well as I’d like). However, it doesn’t sound very cost saving if a bar of soap will only last a single week. I feel like I have no choice, but to go back to Tide.

Abraham Girt August 14, 2014 at 1:50 pm

Thank you so much for these tips. (I didn’t know them).

Paige September 2, 2014 at 4:05 am

I’ve been making my own laundry soap for years. I only use washing soda, ivory soap and borax. The only variation I’ve used over the years is if I use water in it to make liquid or not, either way works the same for my laundry. I’ve used this formula on cloth diapers, cloth sanitary pads, regular every day clothes and since my family and I rely on second hand clothes, this formula cannot be beat. Everything is and smells clean, every time. You only need a tiny bit, one or two tablespoons, and a nearly perfect load of laundry every time. My washer is wonky so it only washes in hot water, not a big deal for my family, though. Like I said, I wash cloth diapers, etc. If you want your soap to last longer, use one bar of ivory soap with two cups each borax and washing soda. You’re laundry soap will last much longer and your clothes will be just as clean.

cp October 24, 2014 at 1:17 pm

There is one property of borax that you’re overlooking. It is an anti-fungal and great against mildew. I live in a mildew prone area and I definitely add it to my detergent. Especially if I’m using soap (which I don’t usually). Soap can leave build-up (soap scum) behind and mildew likes to grow on soap scum. My mom’s front loader is particularly prone to mildew and she does a rinse with borax and without clothes to remove the mildew.

Mimi December 2, 2014 at 3:58 pm

I don’t grate my soap anymore–so much easier to just soak it.

When I make a batch of soap, I drop a bar of soap into a cleaned, plastic Folger’s coffee canister, fill it 3/4 of the way with warm water, put the lid on, and stick it under the bathroom sink.

By the time I need to make another batch, it has long since turned into slimy soap-water, and is so easy to mix in! Obviously, for my first batch, I planned ahead (so unlike me, lol) and soaked it a few weeks before making my first batch of laundry detergent.

BTW, a lot of people talk as if all the soaps are interchangeable for the Fels Naphtha. They don’t realize that Fels Naphtha is NOT a bar of soap–it is a laundry stain stick in the shape of a bar of soap (for easy rubbing over large stains). I’m not saying bath soap doesn’t work–I’ve never tried it, but plenty of people have–but you are losing some of the cleaning power of the original recipe if you don’t use Fels Naphtha, which specifically powers up the batch for stain removal & heavier cleaning.

Tamara DeVault January 14, 2015 at 10:58 am

What about septic tanks? No one has mentioned what these soap build up does to them. I made some laundry soap, fels napa , borax, and washing soda, with oxi clean. 9 months later we are having odor problems with our septic……I hope I have not cost us a new leach line in trying to save money on laundry soap! Not a good bargain in the long run. Someone told my husband that powdered soap is bad for septics.

Loren Amelang January 14, 2015 at 9:25 pm

Re: Septic Systems…

I don’t have a scientific answer, and septic tanks are so varied in construction, other loading, and leach field soil, it probably isn’t possible to provide one. But as one data point, I’ve used my washing soda, borax, and New Age (liquid detergent) mix for over 25 years on the same septic system with no problem whatsoever. I’d be much more concerned about putting chlorine bleach or antibacterial products (including excreted antibiotics) into the system.

If you are at all concerned, I’d suggest regularly adding a bacterial product made for septic tank support. I’ve used the Canadian “Septonic” brand forever, it is much more economical than the US competition. Does it work? I’ve never had occasion to open my tank to see…

Lizzy Bee January 24, 2015 at 5:57 pm

THANK YOU for this post! I am a DIY laundry detergent maker and I firmly believe LESS is MORE when it comes to ingredients. My go-to recipe is always borax, washing soda, and a grated soap (Fels, Zote, Castille, etc.). I have come across quite a few “recipes” on Pinterest that are not only ridiculous, but completely self-defeating.

It seems like some people literally just go to the store and buy every single item they see in the laundry aisle, bring it home, throw it all into a food processor, grater, or bucket, and write an article claiming their concoction is “the best ever DIY laundry detergent recipe.”

To me, that’s like buying every type of disinfectant, floor polish, scouring scrub, and window cleaner, dumping it all together, pouring it into empty spray bottles, and then writing a blog post about my “amazing all-in-one house cleaner.”

Anyways, thank you for such an informative post. I shared it via Pinterest and hope that the many detergent do-it-yourselfers out there will read it, too!

Lori January 30, 2015 at 2:56 am

Just want to draw your attention to the fact that the bacteria B. Cereus is a pathogen. see http://www.foodsafety.gov/poisoning/causes/bacteriaviruses/bcereus/ , however the first one you mentioned is not toxic. http://www.epa.gov/biotech_rule/pubs/fra/fra009.html

Are you not concerned about the impact of using a toxic bacteria in your laundry detergent? Could it be harmful if it remains on the clothing?

Just a little worried about this.

Kind regards

Daisy January 30, 2015 at 6:03 pm

Lori–The “ingredients” Deanna mentions in this post are found in commercial laundry detergent. And she was really just kidding about making your own bacteria. We’re crunchy but we’re not THAT crunchy!

Jenn February 17, 2015 at 9:17 am

Thanks for the great info – it was super helpful! Be careful of the B. cereus – it’s the bacteria in spoiled fried rice that causes severe food poisoning that we see people in the hospital for.

Donna March 11, 2015 at 3:10 pm

The hardness (or softness) of your water is a huge determiner in how your cleaning agents are going to work. Back in the day when soft rainwater was used on blue Monday, lye soap worked great. I still have several pounds of my grandmother’s last lye soap batch made nearly a hundred years ago. The outside has powdery residue, but when you scape it down to ‘healthy’ soap it’s wonderful. I use it whenever I get bad dry skin in winter time.
The water here in East Tennessee is delicious, sweet and pure, but having filtered through hundreds of feet of limestone is extremely hard.
A good commercial coconut oil castile bar soap is ‘Kirks’ which is made in Kentucky and available in Food City stores here in Tennessee. That and Nature’s Gate shampoo/conditioner are only products I have found that work well with our water.
Because we have cattle (beef and dairy) we have a lot of manure stains on our clothes that only thing I have found that does the job to remove is the Tide enzyme ‘boost’ pods. One thing I have found about them is that they are much more effective if you fill washer about half full with lukewarm water, put in pod and then laundry, mix and let soak about fifteen minutes. Then finish filling and add whatever detergent/soap. Apparently the detergent/soap can deactivate the enzymes. Donna, lady farmer in braids

sat March 11, 2015 at 3:51 pm

I found that the original liquid recipe with washing soda and baking soda and soap did not get all my laundry clean if-body odors-some people are more potent than others, some dirt(stains, heavy soil, cuffs, collars, socks imbedded with dirt from walking around with no shoes can be removed by pre-scrubbing with lots of water and direct application of an extra soap bar or a special soap paste/sun technique).

My improved homemade recipe uses baking soda instead of washing soda, and adds 1/3 cup of Kosher salt per cup of borax to soften water and improve greatly the surfactant property( decreases surface tension and improves wetting quality-so clothes are able to absorb more water and dirt gets pushed out-it is water that cleans not the soap-but you must be able to push the water in and out the material to clean by later rinsing out the dirt well. this is the science of cleaning-soap, detergent is needed because most dirt is bound by oil which is hydrophobic-does not release in water-soap takes care of this problem. Without the oil you could clean with water alone. As for suds- an unhealthy chemical sodium lauryl sulfate or its counterpart SLES(cancer, neurotoxic) creates suds which is simply for your viewing pleasure.

I actually hand wash some items-white socks, kitchen linen-cannot stand that greasy smell that remains after washing even with traditional detergents-that also cover up odors with all that heavy perfume which makes me sick now that I have not used it for 5 years or more. simply scrub with bar soap, rub material against itself and rinse twice. For stubborn stains or other types-expose soaped item(can make a paste and apply to stain) to sunlight, a great stain remover, whitener and disinfectant-scrape off soap paste and stain is gone. rinsing well imperative.

Clothes last longer-environment is protected and I am exposed to far fewer toxins. think of doing laundry as exercise-burning calories.

My dry recipe:
600 gm or 21 oz of grated soap: Zote, Tepeyac, Lirio, Fels Naptha-I generally use 2 types of
soap(bath soaps or other scented soaps can contain fragrances which stain due to the oil)
2 cups of Borax
2 cups of baking soda-bicarbonate of soda (not washing soda) at Costco you can get 11 lbs
2/3 cup of Kosher salt

essential oil optional-they do not stain because they are not oily-they are the volatile distillates of plant materials. make sure you have pure essential oil and not infused ones that are mixed in carrier or fragrance oils-these are cheaper and will stain-personally the smell of clean is enough for me. caution with lavender especially and possibly tea tree oil-question of hormone disruption causing breast dev in prepubescent boys and problem with pregnant women-estrogen like effect and anti-androgen(male hormone) so I would not use if you have family members in this category until facts better known

I have used oxiclean powder-no added whiteness seen
pure peroxide works well on blood stains, not seen any benefit adding to wash otherwise
Used washing soda -no benefit seen
Baking soda removes odors very well-biggest reason to add
switch to dry recipe has made a huge difference
sunning with soap yes does whiten or with lemon juice boiling, also just put item in sun
handwashing regular laundry(then throw in machine) stains, dirt does very very well-nothing beats plain laundry bar soap scrubbed into material-more time energy but worth it
salt works for me-grandmas used it
soaking after a few minute agitation improves results, handwashing too
bath soap, face soap, fragrance soap should never be used-oils can stain clothes plus you are fighting clean by washing with these oils contained in them

Valerie March 16, 2015 at 5:18 pm

I really prefer my liquid homemade detergent but I am curious if anyone can answer a question for me?

I think adding salt is a good suggestions as many have mentioned here. I wash mostly in warm or hot water (I would never wash my dishes in cold water, I feel the same way about my laundry).

Could I add some salt directly into the basin at the start of the wash, I always put my gel like liquid into the dispenser, and vinegar with various EO in the rinse dispenser.

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!

Elizabeth March 21, 2015 at 9:01 pm

I have been using Pink Solution enzymes and it has worked great.

At the moment trying out the Smart Klean Laundry ball!

soma March 31, 2015 at 8:57 pm

We have extremely hard and highly chlorinated water. Also a family of chemical and asthma sufferers. I have a carbon filter on the cold intake and a kdf filter on the hot. About a year ago I discovered soap nuts, about as all natural as you can get. Toss a about five nuts in a cloth bag and drop in machine at start, and remove before rinse cycle. Seems easy enough? Not with the hard water and not in cold water. Seems you need to warm them up abit first to release the saponins from the nuts. Not a problem with hot, but still the issue of hard water persists. Here where the borax and washing soda come in. When washing hot, I’ll just drop the bag of soap nuts in, about quarter cup each of borax/washing soda. I sometimes miss the rinse cycle to remove the bag, and the times i did, it didn’t seem to make a difference. The clothes come out amazing! I do not add anything to the rinse cycle. So what about the cold? Well I’m too lazy to heat the soap nuts up first, so I just grab my old coffee grinder and grind up into a fine powder and premix with the borax/soda. A little goes a long way, and the bag of nuts last many washes. And no worrying about removing the bag at rinse which will lessen the uses you get out of them. I use wool balls for the dryer and clothes are soft, oil stains come out in cold, and they just feel amazing on the skin!

Jazzy April 7, 2015 at 10:58 am

I came across your website in Google , U answered questions I had about salt in laundry soap and borax. I had to stop making it and ARM @ Hammer laundry detergent is what I use and he stopped itching . Will start making it again when I run out and might make it liquid . What do u think about Dawn dishwashing soap in laundry recipes ? It does make a good stain remover and washes my dishes . My grandma used it and my mom uses it. Will buy your book . What a great website! Jazzy

Julia April 17, 2015 at 10:36 am

My washer and dryer are in my garage and only cold water is running there. There for my laundry is washed in cold water .Since borax doesn’t do well in cold water, can i just use washing soda and a grated bar of soap? Please Help. Do you have a recipe for cold water laundry detergent?

Cynthia April 23, 2015 at 11:43 am

What is your final outcome for a powdered recipe for hard water?

Ruth May 18, 2015 at 8:31 pm

I love the research you have done, we have hard water where I live and I love to have homemade detergent specially for my daughter cloth diapers! I usually wash them by hand with zote I have an HE front Machine, any help thanks :)

Jean May 19, 2015 at 7:29 am

Although vinegar in the rinse acts as a great water softener, I would not use it if you have a septic tank. The vinegar will kill off a lot of bacteria… a septic system needs those same bacteria to function properly.

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